# Is this a good buy for a used car?



## Davidius (Mar 10, 2009)

My wife rear-ended someone a couple weeks ago and our car (1997 Nissan Altima) is totaled. Thankfully, she is fine. 

We're getting $3300 for it from our insurance company and are now looking for used cars, hopefully one that would last until I am done with my PhD (~5-6 years). 

Does this car look okay? 

5883 - 2005 Dodge Stratus

Its Carfax report is good, but I'm a bit concerned about the 88k miles. Everything else looks good.


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## CDM (Mar 10, 2009)

Brother, I would stay away from the Stratus--especially with 88k miles.


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## Davidius (Mar 10, 2009)

Along with answering the OP, could you also recommend good cars that can be bought cheap used?


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## smhbbag (Mar 10, 2009)

Without making a specific recommendation, I would say by far the most important thing you can do in this process is to have a mechanic you trust give the car a complete, end-to-end look. Have him put it up on his lift, and spend an hour of quality time with everything that can possibly be checked. This may cost $50-150 depending on the shop, but buying a car without this trusted, knowledgeable 3rd party inspection is taking a BIG risk.

If the dealer or private party person does not consent to you taking the car for that purpose before the sale, it tells you a lot. Just ask for a test drive, and say that any sale is impossible without you having your mechanic look it over. Said seriously enough, they won't have a problem. Additionally, the mechanic will likely find small or inconsequential things you don't mind that you can still use to bargain down the price. 

I have only bought one car, but ended up doing 3 of these inspections while I was looking for one. My mechanic saved me from two cars that had potential issues I'd have never spotted, even though I know a good deal about it.

If you do not know any mechanics particularly well, I can make a recommendation for one who has earned my family's complete faith over the last decade.


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## the particular baptist (Mar 10, 2009)

Praise God for His protection. 

For something that has a good probability of lasting 5-6 yrs for 3500, a Honda Civic or Accord around the same yer as your Altima would fit the bill, i think.

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1997&make=Honda&model=Accord]1997 Accord

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1996&make=Honda&model=Civic


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## Anton Bruckner (Mar 10, 2009)

A certified used Honda Accord.


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## smhbbag (Mar 10, 2009)

> A certified used Honda Accord.



I was going to amend my post regarding a mechanic's check to include this aspect.

Certifications for used vehicles are generally ok, but for obvious reasons be very suspicious of cars certified by the same place that sells them. An independent, third-party inspection by someone who is only looking out for you as an individual (like a mechanic you know) is best. Some dealers have their certifications work this way, but that can still be hairy.


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## CalvinandHodges (Mar 10, 2009)

Hi:

You may want to check out a 2001 or later Volkswagen Jetta:

2001 Volkswagen Jetta | Overview of Used 2001 Jetta Cars at Automotive.com

If you want to know everything about the car you are buying, then ask the dealer for a CarFax. If he hemms and haws, then there may be a problem with the car that he is not telling you about. Most dealers will claim that a CarFax is too expensive. Offer to pick up the $14 charge. You can even do your own CarFax on the internet:

CARFAX - Vehicle History Reports on all used cars, just enter your VIN!

If the dealer does the CarFax, then go with him to make sure he is not doing it on some other site.

Blessings in your search,

Rob


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## Craig (Mar 10, 2009)

I would definitely avoid the Dodge Stratus.

If you can find a used Hyundai, as Josh noted, you will get a very good car. Other cars to consider:
Chevy Malibu, Chevy Impala, and the Ford Taurus. Not necessarily the fanciest of cars, but these have been reliable (that's why companies buy them for their employees), and the parts are easy to get ahold of if you need to have them repaired.

If you know anyone who has a company car, you could even ask them how you could purchase one from their company...my dad bought a company car from a fella at his church for my younger brother (a Chevy Impala), and the car has been a huge blessing for him.

I would avoid VW's...they may be more expensive when it comes time for repairs.


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## Davidius (Mar 10, 2009)

What is wrong with the Stratus? I've looked up some reviews online and, like most cars, it has some good ones and some bad ones.

The later model Hyundais start at about 10k.

I've found a lot of Ford Focuses in our price range but none of them have ABS. How important do you consider this feature?


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## Davidius (Mar 10, 2009)

I found a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 62k miles for $9170. How about this? We are approved for a loan from the credit union (60 mo. 5.75%) and could make a pretty reasonable down payment.


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## Herald (Mar 10, 2009)

No offense, but Dodges are good for target practice and fishing reefs.


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## Theognome (Mar 10, 2009)

Stratus = new tranny every 25k miles.

Theognome


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## Scottish Lass (Mar 10, 2009)

_Consumer Report_'s auto guide just came out this month--they review used cars back ten years and show exactly what problems each model tends to have. Check your library. They're not fond of the Stratus, either, If I recall correctly.


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## Webservant (Mar 10, 2009)

Craig said:


> I would definitely avoid the Dodge Stratus.
> 
> If you can find a used Hyundai, as Josh noted, you will get a very good car. Other cars to consider:
> Chevy Malibu, Chevy Impala, and the Ford Taurus. Not necessarily the fanciest of cars, but these have been reliable (that's why companies buy them for their employees), and the parts are easy to get ahold of if you need to have them repaired.
> ...


The Taurus, for sure. We had one from 1999 until 2008 that we ran to death. We hauled 5 kids around in that thing, and I didn't always have the money to maintain it in an ideal fashion. We ended up giving it away. It still drove - it was just too small for three teens and two pre-teens.


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## Davidius (Mar 11, 2009)

I have been able to find decent deals on a Taurus and Impala.


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## Craig (Mar 11, 2009)

Davidius said:


> I found a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 62k miles for $9170. How about this? We are approved for a loan from the credit union (60 mo. 5.75%) and could make a pretty reasonable down payment.



Brother, I recommend you don't finance a car at all. Speaking as a married man with a daughter, another on the way, and (Lord willing) beginning my PhD track in the Fall, financing will create an additional burden for you. Taking on a payment seems "doable", and then repairs will happen. If you can survive without a car for a bit, maybe save up so you can pay cash for a newer used car. Another option if you need a vehicle: buy a junker that you can drive a few months while you save up more money...you might get a year out of it, who knows (besides this, we're getting to the time of year where cars sell for more $ as the weather is getting warmer...buying in December will almost always get you a better deal). 

I own a 2002 Hyundai Sonata...around 60K-70K miles I started putting some money into (normal stuff). You may find that upon financing it that you need new tires, new brakes, timing belt (that is supposed to be changed every 50K, and many people neglect to do this...that's about $500).

I love my Sonata...I have over 120K miles on it, and I've put less than $2 grand into it (this includes things like tires and brakes) since buying it new...but I put most of that into it between 70K and 100K miles.

If you can't save up to pay cash, then that is all the more reason to stay below what your insurance gave you and plunk several hundred into a savings account and keep adding to it for future repairs. Don't forget, when you finance (i.e. spend money you don't have) you will be paying for full coverage insurance...in my opinion, being in school and financing a car is a bigger risk than buying a cheaper car and "insuring" it by having money set aside for repairs you know will be coming.


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## Davidius (Mar 11, 2009)

Craig said:


> Davidius said:
> 
> 
> > I found a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 62k miles for $9170. How about this? We are approved for a loan from the credit union (60 mo. 5.75%) and could make a pretty reasonable down payment.
> ...



There are several things I'm trying to take into account here.

To begin with, my wife and I want a car that is safe, i.e. that has at least dual front airbags, front side airbags, ABS, and some kind of traction control mechanism. The reason for this is obvious, but it's particularly important because we will very likely be living in northern Indiana for the next two years and neither of us is used to driving on snow. My wife is planning to work full time until I finish my M.A., and I do not want her driving to work every day on a piece of junk simply because it was cheap. 

On that note, being in school and financing a car will not be as big a risk for us as it might be for others because I will have a full tuition scholarship, and because I'll actually be getting money from the school (stipend). With my wife working, we will basically have two incomes. 

Thirdly, we are looking at cars that have warranties. For example, just today I found a 2006 Hyundai Elantra with only 34k miles for $7500. This car is still under the manufacturer's bumper-to-bumper warranty for 2 more years or 26k miles, which would cover any kind of repairs for the entire period of my M.A. 

Now, none of this is to say that we wouldn't be willing to look at a car for around $3500, but I have yet to find one that I would feel safe buying. If it really isn't a big deal to get a 1998 with 160k miles that doesn't have the safety features we're looking for, it would be nice to know that. But as I see it, how does it help me to spend less money now on a junker that could fall apart in 4 months, leaving me with the need either to buy another junker or pay a lot for repairs?


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## Craig (Mar 11, 2009)

Davidius said:


> Craig said:
> 
> 
> > Davidius said:
> ...



That's fine. I was sharing what I would do...and I think other men would agree...including Dave Ramsey. BTW: my wife was getting her M.A. with a stipend while I was working full time (from 2003-2006)...it is difficult when you have a car financed...it is even more difficult when you have 2 cars (one financed) and they both need repairing...that is not outside the realm of possibility.

How would buying a junker be better than financing a $9,000 car now, fully insuring it, and paying for repairs? I dunno, after paying $1450 each year for the next 5 years, paying for full coverage insurance, and repairs (a reasonable estimate of $2500 a year for the whole she-bang) how is that better than having a car with no debt, minimal insurance costs, and maybe $500 a year in repairs?

I'm a safety-conscious guy...financing a car while you're going to school, married, and (by God's grace) have a fertile wife, and no set job for your wife that you're banking on her having...that's financially scary. Perhaps you have greater faith than I 

That's my  I'm just a crotchety 29 year old man shaking his fist in the air


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## Davidius (Mar 11, 2009)

Just put your money where your mouth is and show me a car!! 

www.autotrader.com

www.cars.com

My zip code is 27514.

I'm waiting...


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## Craig (Mar 11, 2009)

Davidius said:


> Just put your money where your mouth is and show me a car!!
> 
> AutoTrader.com - Buy Used Cars, New Cars, Sell a Car, Find Car Dealers
> 
> ...



gimme a sec 

Piece of cake:
1997 Saturn
This has front and passenger side airbags...and doesn't look to be a junker. I'd get it inspected, and then tell the dealer (if it is, in fact, good) that you brought $1,500 from your insurance payout on your totalled 1997 Nissan, and walk out with a reliable, $1500 car...put $1,000 into savings, and send the rest to me


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## Theognome (Mar 11, 2009)

Have you considered one of the old Mercedes deisels? They can be had for under two grand cash, and last forever. I sold mine still running with over 700,000 miles on it, and never had to make any major repairs at all.

Theognome


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## Davidius (Mar 11, 2009)

Theognome said:


> Have you considered one of the old Mercedes deisels? They can be had for under two grand cash, and last forever. I sold mine still running with over 700,000 miles on it, and never had to make any major repairs at all.
> 
> Theognome



Hadn't though about one of those. What is the model? Just Mercedes "Diesel"?

-----Added 3/11/2009 at 01:28:12 EST-----



Craig said:


> Davidius said:
> 
> 
> > Just put your money where your mouth is and show me a car!!
> ...



What model is that? I noticed that it doesn't have ABS...


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## Theognome (Mar 11, 2009)

Davidius said:


> Theognome said:
> 
> 
> > Have you considered one of the old Mercedes deisels? They can be had for under two grand cash, and last forever. I sold mine still running with over 700,000 miles on it, and never had to make any major repairs at all.
> ...



Mine was a 1983 300D turbo, though they also had a 240D model as well. There's a photo of it on the dream car thread.

Any of the diesels in that series are simply Chuck Norris rugged. You can't kill them.

Theognome


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## Craig (Mar 11, 2009)

Davidius said:


> Theognome said:
> 
> 
> > Have you considered one of the old Mercedes deisels? They can be had for under two grand cash, and last forever. I sold mine still running with over 700,000 miles on it, and never had to make any major repairs at all.
> ...



I don't know what the model is called...but I do know if I had to buy a car quick...I'd look at a used Saturn first. They're plentiful, long-lasting, and are some of GM's better vehicles. 

I wouldn't put much stock in ABS...I have a car with it, and I have little use for it...actually, no use! I lived in Kalamazoo, MI for 5 years...I've never seen more snow and ice anywhere (including when I went to school in Indiana), and never needed ABS. ABS is not a big deal, and neither is traction control. What you want is a front-wheel drive car with good tires.


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## Davidius (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...nal&paId=137078497&recnum=456&leadExists=true


Cars.com: 1997 Toyota Camry

Cars.com: 1999 Mazda Millenia


???


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## Craig (Mar 11, 2009)

Davidius said:


> Cars.com: 1999 Volkswagen Jetta
> 
> 
> Cars.com: 1997 Toyota Camry
> ...



I'd look into both of those...see...it's not so scary, is it  

The reason I said anything is that I had to confront these decisions while in a similar situation that you'll be stepping into. I considered financing a used car, I considered buying something on the cheap...instead of buying a Saturn like I had planned, I bought a used Cadillac Catera...bad, bad, bad choice.

You just need to learn what risks are good, and what are bad. If ABS, dual air bags, and traction control are important to you...and you can avoid financing, more power to ya!

I'll pray for you on this decision...I know the stress of having to deal with these things when newly married, little income, etc.

---Addendum---
I would consider the Mazda and Toyota before the Jetta...I know Jettas are more expensive when it comes to repair time.


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## Davidius (Mar 11, 2009)

I did a Carfax report on the Mazda and it has about 160,000 miles.


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## he beholds (Mar 11, 2009)

So...we have a 2005 Pontiac Sunfire that has 43,000 miles-ish (maybe more, maybe less, it's my husband's, so I don't know). It has never needed any repairs except for a new windshield because it got hit by a rock and cracked.
Well, maybe we put new brakes on it once. I am not sure.
The speedometer doesn't work and the clock on the radio doesn't work, so we'd have to fix that. 
It has manual locks and windows.
It has a little dent/bump on the trunk from my bike carrier. 
I don't know about the airbags, etc, but it has never given us any problems and I think we'd sell it for around $5,000. (Kelley Blue Book estimates private party value @$5,450).
We live very close to my husband's job, so we could get by with one car--and use that money to help pay our other car off.


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## Edward (Mar 11, 2009)

I'd add a 'no' on the Chrysler. 

I'd also suggest a 'no' on the suggested German cars - parts and repairs are horribly expensive. 

Best bets on quality and reliability would be the Koreans and Japanese, followed by Ford then GM in that order. 

Private sales will be cheaper than dealers, but you'll need the checkout by a trusted mechanic. 

Finally, cars from the non-coastal south will be a better deal than cars from the north or the coast.


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## nicnap (Mar 11, 2009)

Go with a Malibu...I had one that I was prepared to celebrate it's 200,000 mile birthday, until a kid in a giant truck slammed into me at 65mph, and pushed me into 4 other cars. It was a great car...it also is a decent looking car that is fairly roomy. I never had a moments trouble from it.


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## Casey (Mar 11, 2009)

_Free tip unrelated to your car-buying:_

After you've moved to Indiana, on the first day it snows take your wife out to a big parking-lot.

Drive the car around for 20 minutes. Switch seats. Let your wife drive the car around for 20 minutes.

Repeat as needed.


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## N. Eshelman (Mar 11, 2009)

For $3000 you could get a good Volvo from the mid 90s. It will have 100-200,000 miles on it; but it should get you through your Ph.D. 

Do not buy an American car with close to 100,000. It is like buying a dead horse.


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## reformed trucker (Mar 12, 2009)

CaseyBessette said:


> _Free tip unrelated to your car-buying:_
> 
> After you've moved to Indiana, on the first day it snows take your wife out to a big parking-lot.
> 
> ...



This is good advice for someone who has never driven in the snow alot. Make sure there are no other cars around and watch out for light poles! Make the car go into a power slide & try to get out of it. Front wheel drive and rear wheel drive will handle differently. With front wheel, counter-steering and hitting the accelerator will straighten you out. It will help you practicing situations like that before you encounter them out on the road. BTW, rear wheel drive is WAY COOLER for spinning doughnuts!

I wouldn't be too concerned about ABS; if you don't have it just remember to "pump" the brakes. I actually hate ABS. I know how to handle a skid, and when the ABS starts cutting in and out it increases your required stopping distance. Hated it even more when the Feds mandated them on heavy commercial trucks. Those would cut in and out on dry roads that were "bumpy"!  When I jam on the binders I want to lay rubber on the road!

Go with front wheel drive and good tires and you will be OK.


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