Purchasing fine clothing: good value?

[Tim]

Because I am no longer a starving student, I am now able to devote some thought to my wardrobe. I would be interested to hear comments from both men and women on whether there are some items of clothing for which it is better value to purchase the more expensive item.

I wish to consider aspects such as:

• better durability, including effects of washing/drying
• superior wrinkle-free
• superior fit
• other aspects that communicate a more professional look or a greater care regarding appearance

Some specific questions:

• Can the cloth used to make a $100 shirt really be better than the cloth used for a $20 shirt?
• I have heard that higher-end shoes can be more durable, but won't the sole will still wear out (just like car tires)?
• Are there some items that you should buy higher quality, and other items cheaper is just fine?

 

[Edward]

I have heard that higher-end shoes can be more durable, but won't the sole will still wear out (just like car tires)?

Remember, the three requirements for shoes should be comfort - appearance - durability in that order. A high end pair of shoes will probably have leather soles, and it is cost-effective to get them re-soled (or half soles and heels) to keep them going. Cheaper shoes it will be more cost effective to replace them when they wear out. I've not found it cost -effective to repair rubber soled shoes, and thus I've gone to cheaper with a quicker replacement cycle over high -end on those; in either case the upper outlasts the sole, and the more expensive rubber soled dress shoes don't seem to get that much better mileage.

Are there some items that you should buy higher quality, and other items cheaper is just fine?

The first thing to wear out on my shirts is the right cuff (from mousing) then left (from the watch) then the collar. I tend to buy the cheapest 100% cotton shirts that I can, since I know these areas are going to go long before the rest of the shirt. Folks with other wear patterns may reach different results.

As for suits - the pants will probably go first, so look for a place that will sell suit separates or where the suit will come with a second pair of pants. That will greatly extend the life of your investment. I go 100 wool for my suits.

Ties are an area where you will want to go a little higher. There's a big difference in appearance between 100% silk ties and polyester blend. Go with a conservative 100% silk pattern. Avoid, however, the extra cost for a designer label. And tuck it into your shirt or throw it over your shoulder when you eat.

 

[VictorBravo]

The first thing to wear out on my shirts is the right cuff (from mousing) then left (from the watch) then the collar. I tend to buy the cheapest 100% cotton shirts that I can, since I know these areas are going to go long before the rest of the shirt. Folks with other wear patterns may reach different results.

Interesting. My collars always wear out first, but I almost always turn up my cuffs if I'm working without a jacket. I've found expensive cotton shirts seem to wear out just as fast as less expensive ones. In the 80s that wasn't the case, but, since 1998, I've never had cotton shirts last me more than 4 or 5 months before the collars fray. I usually buy at least 5 at a time so I only wear one shirt a week.

In the Pacific Northwest, I haven't needed a suit anywhere. I get by with decent wool slacks or (most of the time) nice chinos, a mid-range conservative sport coat, and one of 5 or 6 understated silk ties. I've been before judges in federal and state court in three states in that kind of outfit and have never felt out of place--even in the "big city" (Seattle). I suppose if I were to appear somewhere in the east, I'd want to ask around to see what the locals wear.

Shoes: an old bootmaker told me two pairs worn in alternating fashion last longer than buying three pairs one at a time. It seems to be true. Leather sole shoes are classy and nice, but I have always worn out leather soles quicker than rubber. If you don't have a reasonable shoemaker nearby to resole, it isn't cost effective. Also, on wet surfaces, especially grass, leather soles are like banana peels.

 

[Philip]

Couple of things:

1) Budget-wise, the thrift store is your friend, particularly for expensive items that can be altered (suits, etc). Persistence is key, but you can get more for less. I can go to the department store and for $150 buy a suit that doesn't fit and needs altering and will wear out in 5 years, or I can be patient at thrift and end up spending 20 bucks plus 40 in alterations. Plus, if you can do your own work on things like hems, you can cut costs further.

2) Shoes: a good pair of dress shoes should be a 20 year investment. I've found Johnston-Murphy to be a decent budget brand. Florsheim is a decent placeholder, but their quality has declined since they decided to offshore their production. As for soles, a good shoe will be built so that it can be re-soled when the soles wear out. Some higher-end brands (like Allen Edmonds) will even let you ship your shoes back to the factory for repairs if there isn't a good cobbler in your area.

3) Shirts: if you want good shirts at a good price, Lands End is your friend. Costco (if you have a membership) is also a bargain. I advise against wrinkle-free, simply because the effect is achieved through use of chemicals which (for me at least) irritate the skin. Thicker shirting fabrics need less ironing, but are more expensive.

As for your last question, if you decide to skimp, do it on items that are easily replaceable (shirts, chinos, belts, ties) and invest in items with a longer life (suits, shoes). But again, the thrift store is your friend. Good shirts, chinos, and ties (belts not so much) regularly end up in stock in good condition. Over the last five years my wardrobe has increased a lot, mostly due to frequenting second-hand shops.

 

[VictorBravo]

But again, the thrift store is your friend. Good shirts, chinos, and ties (belts not so much) regularly end up in stock in good condition.

I agree with Phillip on this. I forgot that I found a perfect-fitting Brooks Brothers navy-blue wool blazer for $15 in almost new shape. We don't have much in the way of thrift stores where I live, but every now and then there is something quite worthwhile.

 

[Philip]

But again, the thrift store is your friend. Good shirts, chinos, and ties (belts not so much) regularly end up in stock in good condition.

I agree with Phillip on this. I forgot that I found a perfect-fitting Brooks Brothers navy-blue wool blazer for $15 in almost new shape. We don't have much in the way of thrift stores where I live, but every now and then there is something quite worthwhile.

As I'm thinking of it, I don't think I have a single sport coat, at the moment, that wasn't second-hand.

 

[Scottish Lass]

Can the cloth used to make a $100 shirt really be better than the cloth used for a $20 shirt?

Often it's not the cloth (though it can be), but the sewing of hems, buttons, collars, etc. Better shirts (notice I didn't say pricier) will have steady stitching, matched, flat seams, extra buttons, collar stays, etc.

On the other hand, there's a big difference in quality for what Tim wears on Sunday to preach versus Wednesday evening, hospital visits, etc.

 

[Hemustincrease]

It is nearly always worth buying the best quality you can afford. Cloth does vary. There are cotton shirts and cotton shirts IYKWIM. I sew (not professionally) and some fabric is just not going to hold together no matter how great the seamstress is (though Anna is correct in that the sewing techniques/attention to detail etc matter also and some store bought clothes are very badly constructed. This is often true of designer clothes, so don’t be fooled into thinking a designer label will always mean good quality. I buy clothing on ebay sometimes and when doing so always stick to the two labels I know will be good quality/fit. The rest just isn’t worth the risk.)

So far as footwear goes, my late husband purchased me a pair of Wellington boots (some 12 years ago now) and I was shocked at how much he had spent. Far more than I would ever have thought needful for a pair of wellingtons. However.......12 years later, those boots are as good as new and I wear them on a daily basis (dog walking) in the winter. I don’t doubt that they will be lifetime boots. He absolutely got what he paid for (and proved me wrong ) which was excellent quality. Had I bought cheap boots I would likely have spent as much, if not more money, over the 12 years replacing them each year and griping about them letting water in or being uncomfortable etc. Always get the best footwear you can afford. If I ever came into a sum of money, the first thing (or close to the top of the list at any rate) I would do, would be to go to a proper shoe shop and buy the absolute best quality shoes going for my children and I. It really does make a difference.

I agree with the thrift store frequenters. I have picked up plenty of virtually new, top quality clothing for the children and I at bargain prices. I would far rather spend what we have by getting something of higher quality there (but at a fraction of the original cost) than buy something ’new’ but poor quality and construction.

Women can perhaps get away with buying cheaper quality clothing (for some items) in view of the changing fashions and (for some, not all) throwaway mentality, but men’s clothing is often far less driven by passing fashions and as such it is worth buying clothes of a higher quality which are made to last. Good quality cloth and construction means an item can be more easily altered or repaired in the future (if need be) and give the wearer many more years. If I ever set up as an alterations seamstress, I would target men who buy top quality clothing.

The absolute best option of course, for those who can afford to do, is to go to a tailor and have your clothes made to fit you, from cloth of your choice.


Quality doesn’t have to come with a huge price tag, but my motto tends to be, if I can’t afford/find quality, I’ll do without.

 

[Backwoods Presbyterian]

I sweat like a stuck pig (even before I moved to south Mississippi) so I have to buy dress shirts in a regular pattern. However, I also have a large neck (17-17 1/2) with a stout (not fat) chest, but I am only 5'6" so it is almost impossible to find inexpensive dress shirts that fit me properly. The only thing I can find that works for me without spending a lot is Marshall's/T.J. Maxx/Goodwill, etc... Sometimes Walmart will have the expandable collar, which I will buy.

As far as stores I have found, in my experience, Joseph A. Bank makes a better suit than Men's Warehouse for a better price. I have two pairs of pants and two suit coats that I purchased at Men's Wearhouse three years ago that have already needed mended in the pockets and the hem fixed on the pants.

I wear a suit 5 days a week (will wear nice slacks and a dress shirt on Friday's) mostly out of personal preference (I really like wearing a suit and wish it was still 1920 and I wouldn't look strange wearing one all the time).

 

[Edward]

Often it's not the cloth (though it can be), but the sewing of hems, buttons, collars, etc. Better shirts (notice I didn't say pricier) will have steady stitching, matched, flat seams, extra buttons, collar stays, etc.

As for the thread and stitching, check the labels. It's probably all coming out of the same factories in Asia, and Walmart's quality control is probably as good as anyone's. And buttons are cheap - how much should one pay for a couple of spare buttons sewn on at the bottom? You have a point on collar stays - cheaper shirts leave those off - but we take the shirts to a local discount laundry that seems to do a good job so that the stays are not missed.

 

[Scottish Lass]

Often it's not the cloth (though it can be), but the sewing of hems, buttons, collars, etc. Better shirts (notice I didn't say pricier) will have steady stitching, matched, flat seams, extra buttons, collar stays, etc.

As for the thread and stitching, check the labels. It's probably all coming out of the same factories in Asia, and Walmart's quality control is probably as good as anyone's. And buttons are cheap - how much should one pay for a couple of spare buttons sewn on at the bottom? You have a point on collar stays - cheaper shirts leave those off - but we take the shirts to a local discount laundry that seems to do a good job so that the stays are not missed.

That's why I said price wasn't a guarantee of quality, but how to look for indicators of quality regardless of label. As far as paying for the extra buttons, I guess it depends on what it's worth when one goes missing (and how close a match you may have on hand). Even shirts from low-end department stores generally have one of each size included.

 

[Free Christian]

Me, giving fashion advice hope none of my Aussie friends see this
Not much on clothing to give, im an Aussie yobo from way back. For our US counterparts here that would be equivalent to your Hill Billys
But shoes have gone down hill fast over the years, in particular the soles.
Many have gone from good rubber soles to a composite rubber plastic which cracks easily and wears poorly.
You can tell easily if they have the cheap composite sole by the smell of the sole. If its smells like rubber and is relatively easy to push into, gives a little when you push your thumb firmly into it, or rub your thumb along it there should be the typical rubber type gripping on you skin as you do so, then alls good. But if it has a slight to strong chemical smell which is petro chemical based and is hard to the touch and smooth to rub your finger along then its the cheapo rubbish stuff.

 

[Mushroom]

The pinnacle of fashion for my taste is Duluth Trading and Russell Moccasin, so I doubt I would have anything of value to contribute.

 

[Free Christian]

Iv still got a pair of Moccasins I brought about 15 years ago, Aussie Marino wool, shows how well they were made!

 

[VictorBravo]

The pinnacle of fashion for my taste is Duluth Trading

I love their catalogs!

Have you ever tried their fire hose pants? They look kind of stiff, but I've wondered how they hold up compared to heavy Carhartts.

 

[Mushroom]

The pinnacle of fashion for my taste is Duluth Trading

I love their catalogs!

Have you ever tried their fire hose pants? They look kind of stiff, but I've wondered how they hold up compared to heavy Carhartts.

Haven't tried 'em yet, Vic. But I have my eyes set on a pair with the built-in kneepad pockets. Seems like a great idea.

 

[Jerusalem Blade]

Tim, I don't buy "fine clothing" as regards dress clothes, but – as per the saying, "I'm too poor to buy cheap clothing" – when I buy outerwear, such as jackets and winter coats and shoes and boots, I try (if I have the cash available) to get quality boots (Scarpa / Fabiano, which last for decades) and shoes (Ecco w/Gortex), and durable, comfortable walking shoes. I dress more as if I were living in the mountains than in NYC, rugged gear – often "technical gear" – that is good for bad weather (cold, wet). I have some dress clothes, but I wear them so seldom they don't wear out much. And these latter, my wife got them for me, to upgrade my "look"!

 

[Edward]

I suppose some clarification as to 'fine clothes' should be discussed, as well. Some clarification is here as to shirts - $20 vs $100, but for suits, are we talking $300, $500, or $1000 suits as 'fine'?

 

[118min]

I found a great sale last month at Jos.A. Bank. and now I am a big fan. Once I tried dress shoes at $50, and boy did I hate them. I just got cole-hann on sale for $110.00 and they are fabulous. They also had 3 dress shirts for $99.00 and well worth it. I also like their undershirts, not too thin as others; however I refuse to pay their price for ties, which is way too high. I also got 3 nice belts for special promotion. Since I only wear the suits one day a week, or to a funeral. I considered it a good deal to have clothes that are comfortable, durable, and not easily wrinkled. If they last me 5-6 years then I really cannot complain. However I stress again, I waited for rare specials and deals, that may only happen 2-3x a year.

 

[a mere housewife]

I think it would be well worth the extra money to buy well made clothes if the people making them are also being paid a decent wage. It would promote righteousness in the earth