Another Tool/Hardware Question

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Marrow Man

Drunk with Powder
I am on the last stage of the breakfast nook. I was not able to remove the offending screw with the stripped head (after multiple purchases of so-called extractors; apparently they are not incompetent-proof). The screw head, which juts out 1/4" or so, was going to be on a "hidden" part, so I didn't concern myself too much with it. However, upon getting ready to install a decorative back panel on the nook, I discovered that the offending screw is in the way; I cannot install this last part w/o dealing again with the screw.

I have a small hacksaw that was purchased for cutting PVC pipe. My question: will such a hacksaw cut through the metal bolt. Or should I go and purchase (groan, another purchase) one of those attachments for the drip that spins and cuts through metal? Or is there another, simpler (and lest costly!) alternative. I don't want to get started and run the saw blade and have that be yet another purchase to replace.
 
It is a 2" long metal "machine" screw (it is designed for wood boring, but it does not have the tapered head of a wood screw; the nook had pre-drilled holes for installation).
 
The hacksaw will probably cut it, but it may be difficult to prevent it from marring the wood around the screw. If you can cover the wood with something to protect it, that might help. Maybe a cloth or even better a piece of sheet metal.

Have you tried turning it out with a pair of visegrips? Sometimes you can get a grip on 1/4", and using a piece of sheet metal to protect the surface, get it to turn out. Make sure the sheet metal doesn't have any bent edges or burrs that will scar the wood, and tape it into place so it doesn't slide around while you work... that may scratch.
 
Have you tried turning it out with a pair of visegrips? Sometimes you can get a grip on 1/4", and using a piece of sheet metal to protect the surface, get it to turn out. Make sure the sheet metal doesn't have any bent edges or burrs that will scar the wood, and tape it into place so it doesn't slide around while you work... that may scratch.

Marring the wood is not paramount, as this section will be hidden by the panel. I tried the vise grip, but I could not get a grip sufficient to turn the screw (it's really lodged in there tightly, which is part of the reason it stripped so easily).
 
Take the blade off the hack saw, and keeping it stiff with your index finger flat along the blade, and with the teeth pointing towards you, bear down fairly hard on the forward stroke and fairly lightly on the backwards stroke. It should cut through in less than a minute.
 
Did you mean to say bear down on the pull stroke? If you reverse the teeth that would be the cutting stroke. And, yes, that will cut the screw unless it is one of those super hard high tensile SS screws. I doubt that is is since they cost about five bucks each for a 2x1/4.
 
Did you mean to say bear down on the pull stroke?

No, with a screw if he bears down on the pull stroke the blade will seize up, especially for the first couple strokes. The cutting stroke is as you know the pull stroke (given him doing it as I suggested) but the first couple strokes have to be light until the saw has made a pathway. I often have to use a broken piece of hack saw blade when I'm working on a manifold of valves where there isn't much space.
 
Good point. I assumed he knew to go easy until a channel had been cut. My bad.

He's a head Pastor!

So am I! Well, I don't shepherd heads so maybe I'm not. I wonder, if he is a head pastor who leads the hands and feet. Didn't Paul have something to say about the parts of the body not cooperating.


Sorry. My mind is working in strange ways today.
 
I am head pastor (and only pastor)! But my knowledge of such delicacies is limited! Thanks for all the help and advice!
 
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