Need Good Car Advice

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Reformed Roman

Puritan Board Freshman
So I am not a car guy by any stretch of the imagination. So I got myself into a pickle.

I don't care too much how a car looks. I don't care that I have a sports car that can go 0 to 100 in 2 seconds. Because either way I was going to be stuck in traffic.

So I had two older cars, both with higher mileage and annoying problems. My wife and I both got car notes and sold those older cars. (one had slight mold damage from leaving a moon roof open, another was a 1999)

I decided to buy two 2015 Chevy Spark LT's.

They only have 80 horsepower, but I didn't care, because I was getting 40 MPG being the saavy person I thought I was.

Then I moved to South Dakota. The wind blows my car around like crazy out here. The interstates here have a 80 MPH speed limit with no traffic. And I travel them every day. So the wind blows me around like crazy, snow becomes more dangerous out here, etc.

My wife and I are in the place to possibly have a child in the next year or so as well. This means we will need at least 1 bigger vehicle to put a car seat in realistically.

I have little to no savings up.

If I try to sell my cars now I feel like it's a disaster. I paid $8,900 which was great value per kelly bluebook. But now if I sell to a dealer I only get $6,000 when I owe $8,000.

If I sell privately, blue book says I could get $7,500 to $8,000. But that would take a lot of time, and patience, and after I sell them, I would be without a car to go to work! (I doubt I could get approved for a loan until I sell first!)

So I'm not sure what to do, should I sell now, should I wait. I don't know enough about car engines to know if going 80 on the interstate with this low horsepower will destroy my engine. It's under warranty but still... I don't know the best time to sell, and if I do end up selling, I'm not sure what is the most EFFICIENT car long term to buy? I want convenience, less maintenance, and good gas mileage, a long term value. Don't care about anything else.

Any thoughts on the selling process, buying, and possibly what cars to look into?
 
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10 year old Hyundai or Honda. Maybe a Subaru. From the non-coastal south. Make them give you a Carfax. If you live in an area without EPA testing, you might look for a deal on a VW Diesel with the fraudulent software from an area with testing.

You don't sound like you are in the market for a new car; you won't find a decent deal on one I'd recommend that would come in much under $25k. I know that because I'm currently looking and will buy when I can get the money put away.
 
For future buying of cars - buy in cash (i.e. don't use a loan). You just waste tons of money with the loan. Save up and buy and then you aren't losing money every month.
 
For future buying of cars - buy in cash (i.e. don't use a loan). You just waste tons of money with the loan. Save up and buy and then you aren't losing money every month.
I generally agree... But interest works differently on car loans vs home loans.

I would want to buy used. I'm seeing 2012 ish cars with 50k miles for like 8k. But again I would have to go through the nightmare of selling my car, the lien is held out of state. Get the lien released, send out the title, etc. All while buying. It seems like keeping and paying off the car for an extra 1 to 2 years might be the best way to go.
 
And the cars I'm seeing are a little larger in size, Seem to have more horsepower and I'm assuming would be a little more reliable LONG term
 
10 year old Hyundai or Honda. Maybe a Subaru. From the non-coastal south. Make them give you a Carfax. If you live in an area without EPA testing, you might look for a deal on a VW Diesel with the fraudulent software from an area with testing.

You don't sound like you are in the market for a new car; you won't find a decent deal on one I'd recommend that would come in much under $25k. I know that because I'm currently looking and will buy when I can get the money put away.
I second this. Kia might be a good look too.
 
I second this. Kia might be a good look too.

These days, new Kias are a solid option. 10 years ago, they weren't quite as well put together as their Hyundai cousins. Watch for killer air bags in both used and new cars. Toyota is still pushing them out the door and won't fix the ones that are on the road.

For future buying of cars - buy in cash (i.e. don't use a loan). You just waste tons of money with the loan. Save up and buy and then you aren't losing money every month.

I'm highly debt averse, but cars at zero interest or 1% aren't really going for much more these days that cash sales. As interest rates move up, that will, of course, change. But the makers are using the incentive to try to move slow sellers off the lots.
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There are some car buying rules one should keep in mind.

1) Avoid American brands
2) Really, really avoid British brands
3) If you consider a Fiat (including Chrysler) seek professional help.
4) Buy German only if you are independently wealthy. Routine maintenance will cost you more than trying to keep a car in categories 1-3 repaired.
5) No matter how good a deal you think you've negotiated, the salesman got the better end of it.
 
These days, new Kias are a solid option. 10 years ago, they weren't quite as well put together as their Hyundai cousins. Watch for killer air bags in both used and new cars. Toyota is still pushing them out the door and won't fix the ones that are on the road.



I'm highly debt averse, but cars at zero interest or 1% aren't really going for much more these days that cash sales. As interest rates move up, that will, of course, change. But the makers are using the incentive to try to move slow sellers off the lots.
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There are some car buying rules one should keep in mind.

1) Avoid American brands

A caveat if I may. One thing I've done in the past is to look for domestically branded imports. Here are a few examples; Chevy Prism (Toyota Corolla), Dodge Neon (Mitsubishi Power-train) Ford Escape (Mazda Tribute), Ford Ranger (Mazda B) and Chevy Equinox (Suzuki XL7). The "US" version will often save you 20% or more. I had a Prism once that I bought that was two years old for 75% of what a same year higher mileage Corolla with the same options was going for on the SAME LOT. Many don't know this nor research these things.
 
These days, new Kias are a solid option. 10 years ago, they weren't quite as well put together as their Hyundai cousins. Watch for killer air bags in both used and new cars. Toyota is still pushing them out the door and won't fix the ones that are on the road.



I'm highly debt averse, but cars at zero interest or 1% aren't really going for much more these days that cash sales. As interest rates move up, that will, of course, change. But the makers are using the incentive to try to move slow sellers off the lots.
------
There are some car buying rules one should keep in mind.

1) Avoid American brands
2) Really, really avoid British brands
3) If you consider a Fiat (including Chrysler) seek professional help.
4) Buy German only if you are independently wealthy. Routine maintenance will cost you more than trying to keep a car in categories 1-3 repaired.
5) No matter how good a deal you think you've negotiated, the salesman got the better end of it.
Hahahahaha! I feel the same way about cars.
I had an early 90s American car that we just gave to charity. It would work fine until it didn't, and it was usually something catastrophic and it had less than 90k miles.
 
You might look into sales from www.mats.org

They are not much cheaper than other places, but because they sell to missionaries, ministers, and other Christian ministries, they really go over the used cars well before they sell them.
 
Would you all recommend selling at this time?

A small car with like 80 horsepowoer driving 80 on the interstate for about 5-10 minutes a day, the car gets a little jittery without the wind. I worry about long term implications to the engine.

Even if I do sell, I have no idea how I would do it! Because again, the lien holder is in Missouri, I live in South Dakota. South Dakota keeps the titles electronically. But I would probably have to get it sent by mail after the purchase was made. And I don't think I make enough money to get a 3rd car loan before I sell. So the process would be extremely difficult to do, and take a lot of work. If I sell to a dealership I will only get 6K for it, less than a year after I paid 8.9k for it! If I sell privately I can make between 7-8k (I owe 8k) but there is so much that goes behind selling privately, especially when I don't have a physical copy of the title, it is exhausting to think about.

If I wait 3 years, it's paid off. I will have roughly 80k miles on it. But again that's after 3 years of heavy interstate driving. Still under the 100k warranty but I sort of dread the idea. So I guess I'm wrestling with if it's worth the headache or if I should spend an extra 5-10 minutes a day avoiding the interstate for 3 years or just let the car be extremely jittery on the road.
 
(Also Bluebook value from a dealership was like $9,500 and I bought for $8,900. As long as your not going 80 the car gets great gas mileage and has been fairly reliable. And I have less than 50,000 miles on it now. The main problem is that I don't live in the city anymore, and live outside of a city where I drive consistently on the interstate going 80 and I don't see that changing for a few years. But with the debt I currently owe, $8,000, the lien holder being out of state, and never having sold a car privately in my life, I am a little frazzled even by the idea of it)
 
Stay away from the electric cars. They are overpriced and high maintenance costs and useless out out in the desert. My Honda Accord gets 37 mpg on the freeway driving 70-85mph. Gas is the way to go. The U.S. has huge reserves so gas will never be high in our lifetimes. When I buy I always negotiate based on the bottom line, not monthly payments. And with low interests rates at zero/1/2/3% credit is the way to go--even used car rates at Navy Fed for example are from 1.79% to 5.09%. I have always bought at the 2 extremes so that I had one new car and one old: purchased either brand new (usually an ad car with zero-2% interest) or an old car for a couple thousand by cash.
 
A small car with like 80 horsepowoer driving 80 on the interstate for about 5-10 minutes a day,

That one is really pretty easy to fix. Either take the surface streets or drive like an old lady and stay out of my lane. Sounds like your commute is less than 15 miles. Leave 15 minutes earlier. Get home 15 minutes later.

I understand about the jittery - I got a 1.2 liter Renault minivan up to about 115 mph one time and it required a lot of focus. I wouldn't make it a regular practice.
 
That one is really pretty easy to fix. Either take the surface streets or drive like an old lady and stay out of my lane. Sounds like your commute is less than 15 miles. Leave 15 minutes earlier. Get home 15 minutes later.

I understand about the jittery - I got a 1.2 liter Renault minivan up to about 115 mph one time and it required a lot of focus. I wouldn't make it a regular practice.

I bet his wife is not in the car while he drives 80. :)

Slow it down you young wipper snapper, and keep your current cars.
 
If you can fit a car seat in the back I would just drive that bad boy until you can afford to replace it with something better. Just my two cents.
 
80 is the speed limit on the interstate. But there are side streets I can take which does solve most of the issues.
 
As far as reliability, my recommendation is Toyota all the way! We had a 2001 Sienna. We gave it up when it was 15. It had a little over ~200,000 miles on it and had traveled the entire length of the East coast, including part of Canada. It had gone as far west as Texas (using D.C. as a starting point). Aside from the usual maintenance, nothing major ever had to be replaced. We bought it used from a friend in 2008. In 1994, we got a brand new Corrolla which we had to give up in 2012 after it passed the ~200,000 mile mark. Like our van, it needed no emergency maintenance. This year, we're hoping to get rid of our 1990 Toyota pickup truck.

Toyota all the way! We like Honda and Subaru too...

My dad jokes that FORD is actually an acronym for "Fix or Repair Daily." Sorry, I couldn't resist. :)
 
but there is nothing like a good old American truck. My Ford F150 has 225,000 miles and is still on the original transmission.

Unfortunately, Ford is making their pickups out of heavy duty aluminum foil these days. Keep what you have as long as you can.

As far as reliability, my recommendation is Toyota all the way!

The big issue with Toyotas these days is the Takata airbag. Those things really will kill folks, and Toyota isn't stepping up to the plate like they should. I wouldn't touch a new Toyota until they get that problem under control. I'm currently driving a Toyota that's so old that the airbag is safe. Plenty of size and power, but it could use a stiffer suspension.

Well, and another issue. They pressured the local city council to pass a pro-homosexual bathroom bill. I hope for and anticipate a large turnover on the city council in May.

80 is the speed limit on the interstate.

You don't have to drive the speed limit just because it's there. Even I slow down when conditions merit, and your car may well be a condition that merits. Just stay out of the fast lane. And I think they sell bumper stickers that say "I'm pedaling as fast as I can".
 
Keep your current cars, drive more slowly if you don't feel safe, commit to putting aside a bit of money every month toward a somewhat larger sedan that will better sernve your family :)
 
Keep your current cars, drive more slowly if you don't feel safe, commit to putting aside a bit of money every month toward a somewhat larger sedan that will better sernve your family :)

This (as well as similar ones posted above) is excellent advice. The additional five to ten minutes driving time a day beats the aggravation of other scenarios you mentioned.
 
Thank you all. That is the conclusion I came to, but I think slight greed or not wanting to deal with small inconveniences cause us to want to spend money, or waste a ton of time that I don't have to try to flip, buy, sell, etc. all when what I have is a blessed gift from the Lord. Thanks for the encouragement.
 
Keep your current cars, drive more slowly if you don't feel safe, commit to putting aside a bit of money every month toward a somewhat larger sedan that will better sernve your family :)

My advice, too. Adjust your driving style as needed.

Then save up for something a little better/more conducive to where you are/will be living.
 
Your car will be fine for your first child, at least. The worst case scenario is that you put the car seat behind the passenger seat, find that's too cramped for the passenger, and so end up with a parent sitting beside the baby instead of up front. Which is an ok worst case scenario. ;-) And you can choose a seat that works well for your car to make that less likely.
 
This is my story. My son turned 18 and I wanted him to have a nice vehicle, so I gave him my Chevy Silverado. I didn't have much money so I found an Honda Odessey for about $3,000. It had over 140,000 miles. It lasted me 3 1\2 years until I saved up enough money to get another pick up. It was still running good when I sold it. You might not want an Odessey, but I have seen Accords with low price tags. I wouldn't be afraid at all to buy a Toyota, Honda, or Suburu worth 100,000 plus mileage.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
I wouldn't be afraid at all to buy a Toyota, Honda, or Suburu worth 100,000 plus mileage.

One should take into account the Takata airbag issue when looking at Japanese cars. It's a bigger problem in some parts of the country than others (due to the impact of the climate on the explosive).

A plus for many of the newer Subarus is that they use a drive chain instead of a drive belt. If you buy a Toyota or Honda with 100k plus miles, you need to do due diligence to see if it is one with a chain or a belt. If a belt, you need to either budget in a belt replacement or confirm that it has been replaced. Belt replacement is a big ticket item; failing to to replace it is a bigger ticket item if the engine has interfering valves. (Broken belt probably = new engine needed). Non-interfering engines will just need a tow truck, a belt job, and the timing re-set. This site has a few Toyota and Honda models with chains: https://www.reference.com/vehicles/cars-timing-chains-instead-timing-belts-6424a6015bc4a43d#
 
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